WHY ARE WE BACK AT THE EIFFEL TOWER....
BOARDING
Another landing, perhaps best known for their day cruises, is at Point Neuf, down the River on the other side of Notre Dame. Both sets of boats, or bateaux, frequent more or less the same stretch of the Seine, just one going downriver first, the other upriver first. By the way, bateaux means 'fly-boat', because in the past, it was small little craft that gave visitors tours via the Seine.
But not today. Sightseeing on the Seine has become big business. There are a couple of very large concerns that run several large boats each. They have employed extremely inventive designers to give each boat a different feel, an exotic look, a personality of their own. Much of the time, the idea succeeds very well. Far better than having a bunch of copies of the same design running the river. You'd think you were at... well, you-know-where.
Most of these boats are pretty modern looking, and most people are quite pleased with them. For dinner, the place settings are for the most part quite elegant, and the food can be absolutely excellent. But I knew of a boat that was different. It has been on the Seine a long time, and has much history. There is really only one like it left on the River today for which you can, with only a little extra difficulty, secure dinner reservations.
It is owned by Bateaux Parisiens, a company that does dinner river cruises in several countries. Le Bretagne is a boat the company likes you to charter for private parties and luxourious business gatherings and other intimate affairs. But if your timing is right, you can dine aboard Le Bretagne with a limited number of others who have been equally fortunate.
Launched in 1954, Le Bretagne was built "to receive the capitol's prestigious guests and offer them a sumptuous trip to discover the monuments along the banks of the Seine," according to Bateaux Parisiens.
If you're curious about the meal, let me say it was incredible. I remember particularly a mellon-soup-appetizer that was indescribable. Easily the finest food I've had in France, although I must admit I've missed Maxim's and quite a few others. Le Bretagne's Chef, at the time when we were guests, was Yves Gras, a member of the Academie Culinaire de France and founder-member of the Club des Toques Sodexho.
LE MENU
Quail Supreme with Violet Artichokes
And of course, in overflowing abundance, apperatives, wines, sparkling water, coffee, tea, apres-meal drinks, and a great deal of personal charm.
The menu of the night we went was a little better than this standard menu, I think, and we had additional choices. But to be honest, neither Colleen nor I remember, exactly. It was the experience of dining on that fine ship, traversing the Seine in comfort, being waited on by absolutely the most courteous service staff in France, watching the sights go by... the bridges... the myriad boats at anchor along the river...Notre Dame... all the historic monuments... the lovers in the shadows along the banks... the warm feeling of companionship with my table companion... that fills my memory. Quite an experience indeed.
By the way, on this sort of occasion, even if the meal is said to be service compre, service included, meaning no tip is necessary, you should leave 10 to 20 percent additional. Of course you don't have to. But do not think, as some would tell you, that the French will look down their noses at the iggant Americans who likes to throw their money around. Truth is, just like in America, service people greatly appreciate tipping. Think about how people really are. Leave the tip.
We puttered around Paris for a couple of days, then took a faerie-tale journey to the castles of the Loire Valley. If you'd like ride along with us on the TGV to Saint-Pierre-des-Corps,
click here.
And for Eurail and Eurostar rail travel in Europe click here to
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Again we take the same RER/Metro lines as we had done last night, to get to the same place, the base of the Eiffel Tower, but it has nothing to do with the Tower. It's just that le Tour Eiffel permeates Paris,
can be seen so many place in Paris, has so many faces throughout Paris. The reason we come to its base
this night is to go on a cruise on the Seine, the river that adds its sparkling beauty to the City of Light.
There are two prime docking areas for boats that ply the Seine. The larger is near the Eiffel Tower, at Pont de l'Almaon, where there is a bridge from the Trocadero to the Eiffel Tower. There are boat companies on both sides of the River. For the ones on the Left Bank, just cross the street from the base of the Tower, go down some steps, and viola! you are there! Several different styles of boats await your pleasure. In the daytime, most are available for hour or longer cruises on the River,
or even lunch, and you can see the historical sights
bathed in natural sunlight.
It is a very lovely boat, with warm wood panelling and polished copper fittings. There is an ornate English bar and Chesterfield armchairs below decks, and a dining room on the enclosed top deck with an ever-changing view that is unique in all the world. If I sound enthusiastic about this boat, you'll understand fully after you take the opportunity to spend an evening on her. Le Bretagne is more of an experience than I can write about. And we have no pictures of the boat because, frankly, we were enjoying the moment much too much to worry about a camera. I hope you, too, when you get to go to Europe, forget the camera sometimes and just... live.
A typical, down-home-type meal you might expect to find on Le Bretagne:
in a Lemon Balm Vinaigrette
Monkfish Casserole with
Buttered Cabbage and Bacon
Fine cheese plate
Chocolate Fondant Gateau with
Grand Marnier and a Clementine Puree
You'll feel satisfied and so will they.
Travel Europe the way Europeans do.
and while you are on the net, check out these other fine Europe websites
Euro-Rail.org
Eurostar-TGV.com
TravelEurope.biz
VacationInEurope.com
Europe-Train.org
AirfaresToEurope.com
HawaiiAdvertising.com for free information.
