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MADRIDMadrid, which became the capitol of Spain by command of King Philip III in the 17th century, is somewhat like Paris. But of course, it is very different from Paris. The Spanish have a saying that Spain is different, but what it is different from is left to the imagination. Madrid is one of the largest cities in Europe, at an elevation half-a-mile above sea level. Its legendary sunny skies have inspired Spanish painters and visiting tourists alike. Madrid has more cloudless, sunny days than any other European capital, and the air quality is generaly quite good.The warmth of sunny Spain. Madrid.
The Madrid of the workday Spanish people is as sprawling as Los Angeles, with functionally designed buildings and
ubiquitous traffic. But like Paris, there is an inner city that remembers Spain's past.
Toward the inner city... the traffic thins, the buildings become more stylistic.
In the Classic part of the city, you have your choice between Hapsburg Madrid, Bourbon Madrid and Medieval Madrid. Each
has fine historical buildings that tell of the rich past of this varied city. In the Bourbon portion, after traffic circles
the magnificent Puerta de Alcala, you will see the rather unique Palace of Communications, a museum of the way Spain
speaks to itself.
Madrid is not just buildings and statues. It was said of the King who made Madrid his capitol, Philip III, that he lacked his father's capacity for work, preferring instead to pursue pleasure. Philip left day-to-day government of Spain to his friend, the Duque de Lerma. Today's Madrid takes after both men, with hard work before sundown, but tablaos and rocieras rooms full of flamenco after dark. Jazz, rock music and other popular entertainment flourishes. If you read Spanish, Click Here for a schedule of the current nightlife in Madrid. Don't be in a hurry... it takes a while to load. If you prefer to wait until you are in Madrid to check out the nightlife, wander down to the flamenco clubs near Plaza Tirso de Molina. If you follow the local custom and wait until 11pm to have supper, ponder (as you munch on appetizers known as tapas) the name of the plaza. It is in honor of Fray Gabriel Tellez, who wrote more than 300 plays under his pen name of Tirso de Molina. Among them is El Burlador de Sevilla, which just happens to be the earliest literary rendition of the legend of Don Juan. No wonder he used a pen name.
But still, there is art.
And in the same neighborhood is the majestic Palace Royal. Interestingly, the exterior is Italian and the interior French in style. If you covet Flemish tapestries, you should visit here. If you like beatufiully
painted ceilings (Giaquinto), you must visit. If Buen Retiro, Saxony, and Severs porcelain is a treat for you, pay
a call at the Palace. Even if you just like a tremendous collection of fine paintings and sculptures, sculpt out some time
and add the Museum of Carriages, the Exhibition of Gothic Tapestries, and the Gasparini Drawing Room. If that is not enough,
peruse the Royal Pharmacy, restored to its historical benchmark when the King of Spain depended on it for his wellbeing.
Retiro ParkA flight of stairs lead from the Prado to Retiro Park. It is a place where everything happens, from free concerts to art exhibitions to dominos and chess. Especially on Fridays and Sundays, Madrid's largest park plays hosts to skaters and bycyclists as well as small vendors of tasty Barquillos. In May, the magnificent rose garden blushes into full bloom. And on San Blas Hill stands the Madrid Observatory.
There are still Picassos to see and castanettes to hear in Madrid, but let me take you aside and suggest a little
trip to Cordoba, Seville, and down to the Spanish Rivera. Come along and see what we find along the way.
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